Harry's 90-Second Guide to Wool
Wool is one of the most-worn fabrics in the world, but how much do you actually know about it? From wear to care, this is our run-down.
Wool is a natural fibre obtained primarily from the fleece of sheep, goats, alpacas, vicuñas, and other animals, prized for its warmth, softness, and durability.
Once wool fibres are taken from an animal, they’re carefully examined to determine how long and how fine they are. From there, the individual fibres are spun together, creating yarns, which are then woven or knitted into fabric, ready to be dyed, finished, and transformed into garments or textiles.
Note: the length of wool fibres, as well as their thinness are what determine its quality.
Generally speaking, the longer the fibres, the stronger and more durable the fabrics it produces will be. And the finer a wool fibre is, the softer and more luxurious the fabric it produces will feel.
Wool is naturally breathable, moisture-wicking, anti-microbial, and insulating, and has been used to keep humans warm, dry, and clothed for thousands of years.
While wool fabrics are often thought of as heavyweight and woven for garments designed for the cooler months, fabrics that are lighter in weight are also great for summer wear.
Because of its anti-microbial properties, wool naturally resists odours, and due to wool’s strength and durability, wrinkles also don’t stick around too long, making wear and care incredibly low-maintenance.
When it comes to wool used for tailored garments, there are two main types: woollen and worsted. The main distinction between them lies in how the wool is processed.
Worsted wool fibres are carefully combed to lie flat and parallel, producing a smooth, dense yarn with a natural shine and sleek appearance, making it perfect for more formal suits (think of the natural sheen on a big-shot banker’s suit).
In contrast, woollen wool fibres are less uniformly combed, which causes the yarns to have fibres projecting in various directions. This creates a textured, fuzzy surface known as a “nap,” which is better suited for casual suits (think of the rich hand-feel of a history professor’s tweed jacket).
Wool fabrics of different weight are better for different applications. A heavyweight wool designed for winter outerwear (like an overcoat or peacoat) typically weigh in at about 500-700 grams per square metre.
Suits and tailored garments designed for all-year wear typically weigh about 250-350 grams per square metre.
Of course, wools lighter in weight are better for summer tailoring or knitwear, and typically weigh around 190–230 grams per square metre.
As previously stated, wool is naturally anti-microbial (self-cleaning), though when your wool garments get particularly dirty, they require a wash. While some wools are machine-washable (like Merino wool), most-if-not-all respond better when treated to a gentle handwashing or, if needed, dry cleaning.
