Ask Harry: How Do I Wear Suspenders?

The suspender is an accessory that’s seen plenty of iterations over time, from its utilitarian European conception, powerhouse Wall Street status in the ‘80s, to fundamental formal menswear.

While we’re glad to say that suspenders are a bona fide companion for formal attire — and they should still be treated as such — we don’t think they’ve found a place outside of your grandest functions in the present day. So, brace yourselves gentlemen, because this is what you need to know about suspenders.

Button-on vs Clip-on

When it comes to suspender fastening types, there’s two options, but there’s only one choice — the button-on. The invention of the modern suspender is credited to Albert Thurston in 1822, a London haberdasher known for popularizing the accessory as we know it now, and it certainly wasn’t designed with a clip-on.

Essentially, the former is buttoned onto the interior of your waistband, while the latter clips right onto the top of your waistband. Albeit convenient, the clip-on is non aesthetically pleasing, typically weaker, cheaper, and most of all, *a cop out – y*ou’d think for an accessory meant to hold your pants up, it would do a better job of holding itself together.

The traditional button-on suspender is classy, cohesive, and boasts a securer overall fit. The only drawback is that your pants must have buttons on the interior of your waistband, which really isn’t an issue, especially if you’re dressing to the nines in a tux for a bold night out. If your pants don’t already include interior buttons, your tailor can fix that for you.

Strap Width

If our stance on the clip-on suspender is anything to go by, then so should our take on thin straps — they’re a no go in formal wear. Traditionally speaking, a formal strap should be in the ballpark of 1.25-2 inches wide — a thick strap will give you that luxe, commanding, and masculine look you’ve seen on the likes of Humphrey Bogart, Michael Douglas, and Daniel Craig.

If you opt for a modern take on formal suspenders, the straps should be in the range of 1-1.25 inches wide, offering a slimmer look — these are also optimal for men with a heavier set, in case broader suspenders offer a bit much pull for your liking.

In other words, the width of the strap is going to change depending on your personal taste and/or body type — and if you either wear them too casually or dip beneath an inch-wide strap, you might be at risk of growing a handlebar moustache.

Y-Back or X-Back?

While Y-Back and X-Back suspenders are both common, it’s clear that the Y-Back is the top choice in the present day. The single-strapped “Y” back is cleaner and avoids the hassle from the alternative’s crisscross “X” shape.

Though the X-Back might be a better route for those with sloped shoulders or require the extra support, it doesn’t exude that crisp and assuredly suave look — especially not once the tux jacket comes off and you’re hunched over the bar doing your best Bond impression.

Fabric and Colour

Stylistically, silk is always number one as far as your tuxedo is concerned. A tux is indulgent, glamorous, and uncompromising — don’t let the details on your suspenders lower that standard for you. When you’re donning a satin peak or shawl lapel, a silk suspender underneath is going to compliment that just fine.

The colour of your suspenders should play into the theme of your outfit — a black or white tux jacket primarily calls for a black or white suspender. Don’t let that discourage you from finding harmony within your outfit — match your suspenders to your pocket square, cufflinks, or shoes to create that sartorial unison.

Belt and braces

Finally, belt and braces. Never go belt and braces. Not in any scenario should you find yourself simultaneously wearing a belt with suspenders. The pants are already being suspended by your shoulders, there’s no need for secondary support around your waist — if your pants need reinforcements that desperately, you’re wearing the wrong pants.

It’s like what Henry Fonda said in Once Upon a Time in the West, “How can you trust a man that wears both a belt and suspenders? Man can't even trust his own pants.”